Friday, 28 February 2014

Gareth Pugh: ugh

From the beginning there was something strongly familiar which left me till the end of the show trying hard to figure out what it was. What did the outfits remind me of? What was the thread going through the collection?

Obviously, the collection was all about white instead of conventional dark colours which are usually used in winter collections. Even though using summer vocabulary, Pugh still managed to make the collection appear pretty frosty and wintery - the fabulous draping made the models look as if they just came out of a snowstorm, yet still strong and powerful enough to face the world. 

You can't go wrong with white, right? And the draping is simply amazing. But o-m-g the materials.

Look at the clothes. Closely. Observe. Pay attention to every possible shape. 

Do they remind you of something?

Pugh claimed that there's no particular statement behind his clothes. Okey. 

But what the collection says to me is that designers have truly no boundaries when it comes to sources of inspiration. The whole time when I was trying to figure out what is the thread behind the collection, I knew that it was something so common that I wouldn't even consider it as an option. Yet, I got it. Eventually.

To me, the whole collection could be translated into the vocabulary of tissue papers, post-it notes, cotton wool, scotch tape, plastic bags, rubber gums and glue. A stationery shop? 

To understand my opinion (which might possibly sound as utter nonsense, I admit), I'll pick some outfits and try to prove my point.

Let's start from the left (up).

Dress no. 1: A rhapsody of tissue paper.
The dress is draped wonderfully. But it's just that the whole thing looks too much like a giant tissue paper wrapped around the model's body. 

Dress no. 2: Nothing but post-it notes.
Seriously, when looking at this dress I imagine those wannabe funny scenes from sitcoms, when the victim happens to be covered in some sort of mysterious liquid and the only way out of this sticky situation is to end up looking like a snowman out of post-it notes (or in more conventional scenes out of feathers). Don't ask me what scene it was. Maybe I just have too much imagination.

Dress no. 3: Tinfoil.
Do you remember the days when you were trying to cast your hand in tinfoil? Maybe not. Even though I am officially (only officially, please) an adult, I have to admit that I actually sometimes try to cast my fingers in the tinfoil from chocolate bars. Don't ask me why. Probably there's some inner sculptor hiding deep inside me. Anyway, that's all this dress recalls to me. The lazy moments when I play with tinfoil. But here the tinfoil looks more harmful than playful.

Dress no. 4: When I put used tissue paper into a plastic bag.
I think that my caption needs no further explanation. As I said, apparently I have too much imagination.

Dress no. 5: A giant cotton bud.
OK. Here I couldn't decide between plain cotton wool or a cotton bud. But, you know, the legs of the model look like sticks so the cotton bud was a clear choice. 

Dress no. 6: Cupcake baking cups.
Now, I'd like to have some cupcake. And I'd like to try on the coat just because I can't figure out how it works in real life. I mean is it wearable or is it just a matter of catwalk? I want to know!

Dress no. 7: A scotch tape torture.
Is Russian mafia torturing her? I can't imagine how painful it can be just to remove the tape off your body. (I hope you've already realized that I like to use irony and metaphors. I'm just sayin'.)

Dress no. 8: Plastic bags heaven.
This dress seems to be pretty eco-friendly. I mean, they found a new (fashionable) use for plastic bags. The draping is great though.

Well, as you have noticed I am not really a fan of this collection. I like the shapes, the draping, but... 

Anyway, maybe it's just me since I have a phobia of all white plastic stuff. It gets yellow over time, looks filthy and disgusting. I still wish my parents gave me for birthday black iPhone instead of the white one, but they assumed that I wanted to be trendy and get the hottest iPhone of that time. 

Thursday, 27 February 2014

film: Mrs. Arris goes to Paris

Sometimes I crave a simple film (with nice costumes) that would not be a pain to watch but also would not demand much thinking of me. With Mrs. Arris goes to Paris I can happily tick all the boxes.

Even though the film, set in 50s Paris, is more like a fairy tale for adults - ok, for adult women, one can still spot some depth in it. That is in the approach towards clothes, towards the proper luxurious clothes. Just watch how determined Mrs. Harris was to get one Dior dress, what she was able to crucify for it, and then think about what Fashion truly meant to people.

That "appreciation" of fashion is what I'm missing today. Or maybe it's the impact of my current environment of Hong Kong. Where else is one more surrounded by luxury brands on every single step than in Hong Kong? What other city can be likened to a huge shopping mall and still it'd not be an exaggeration?  

The world has turned into a consumption bubble that is all about consuming a product in one second, and getting rid of it the another. Sigh.

Anyway, on a happy note, fashion week in Paris has slowly started. Let's go there with Mrs. Harris. Nevermind, if it's just fictitiously.

Friday, 21 February 2014

Moschino: help me understand this (URGH)

Be honest, please. Tell me whether you like this fashion show or not. And telling why is it so would be also nice of you. And do not feel any need to agree with me, I actually enjoy more of disagreement than agreement. Too many people agree with everyone and everything in this blogosphere.

Fashion people are one of the demographic groups (perhaps rare ones) where you find more people who dislike McDonald's than like. And if they tell you they love or actually eat at McDonald's, don't believe them. They are just being pretentious and trying to hide from you the latest diet they're on. So is Jeremy Scott playing with paradoxes? Maybe the McDonald's part of the collection was a statement declaring that models eat junk food (or not). Or that fashion becomes fast fashion. There are many possible interpretations. If there was any message with good intentions, it got lost. The clothes were too much screaming for attention and just bit too literal. 

The same goes for the rest of the collection. It was just too much. The MOSCHINOs hanging all around the models were just tacky and I couldn't imagine anyone who would really want to wear it. Even fashion victims would put their hands off. And sorry but a handbag as a top (or whatever it is supposed to be)? Are we on Etsy or what?

Nevertheless, there are a couple of things I liked. Really just a couple. I like the coat. It reminds me of my purchase failure in Hong Kong when I bought a similar coat in an anticipation of a tough winter which has never actually come (I got carried off because of the omnipresent air-con). Now the coat is in a suitcase waiting for a proper winter in England next year. Sadly, the Moschino one looks much better. Or fortunately for Moschino. Next are the boots. Put off all the MOSCHINOs and they are actually really nice. I like the idea of knee-high boots (which appeared on more catwalks this season) and I certainly will look for a similar pair for the next winter, trying hard to pull them off together with my HK coat.

Well, I think that I've said enough. 

Me no likey.

Thursday, 20 February 2014

Mulberry: Cara bags

What do you think about the Cara bags for Mulberry?

I have never been a big fan of Mulberry bags because they epitomized to me a sophisticated version of Guess bags and that to me always brought associations of fake social aspirations. In short, of wannabes. And to confirm my theory, just walk down the Ladies Market in Hong Kong - Mulberry fakes are one of its staples.

I'm not impressed by the collection since it's not a fashion miracle and it basically only well combines standard formulas. However, otherwise it's very in time with trends, if not little bit ahead. Look at the straps. I believe that there is a big trend coming - of handbags that can be worn as backpacks. I don't know whether Asia is ahead of trends or already late, but many people are starting to wear such handbags, and, hey, they're really practical! I know that we've already seen such bags with Fjallraven Kanken but their bags still look more backpack-ish than glam. So, in a way, Mulberry only put on them a Mulberry mask, glammed them up little bit and associated them with the It-girl Cara. Voilà Cara bags. 

I have to admit that I really like their functionality. They're like a solution to my everyday dilemma when I decide what to take to school - a handbag or backpack? The handbag means sore arm and shoulder (ugh, the heavy laptop) while the backpack means just an unflattering look. And with such bags I could avoid the unflattering and go for the trendy.

If only I could afford one of them! Student life, sigh...

Sunday, 16 February 2014

Belstaff: London power

London fashion week has already started and I'm so behind (fortunately, I've had so little time). Anyway, I went fast through what was already shown and the collection by Belstaff really caught my eye. The outfits were just right for the British weather and if I could I would definitely wear them the next winter which I'll happily be back in the UK. 

What I really like about this collection is the way the outfits are layered and styled, and then the jackets and coats! Overall, I see in there quite strong reminiscences of working class which is in a way mixed with the British punk. The whole collection certainly resonates with the London scene. Plus, the clothes seem to not only be nice garments that protect one against bad weather and make one warm, but also they seem to be able to incredibly empower the wearer. And the message of empowerment is pretty strong here. The Belstaff girl is definitely not a sweetie but, hey, it's a tough world out there! 

Thursday, 13 February 2014

Victoria Beckham: Jean Arp, maybe

EN: In one of my previous posts I mentioned The Row and their 'celebrity origins'. Here is another such example. Although, I think that Victoria proved enough her status of a fashion designer and doesn't really need any further introduction. 

CS: V jednom z předchozích postů jsem zmínila The Row a jejich 'celebrití počátky'. Tady je další takový příklad. I když myslím, že Victoria již prokázala víc než dost, že je hodna statutu módního nárháře a celkově vlastně ani není třeba ji více představovat. 

Victoria's collection was as always great. She gave us sharply defined outfits which are based on a perfect tailoring and quality materials. Even though the collection revolved mostly around black, white and red, it also featured four outfits with a more organic touch. Sticking only to black and white at first, the outfits felt like nervously stepping into unknown waters with the waters being successfully tamed soon after as Victoria later offered us a confident play with colours. Moreover, perhaps to add an artistic flair to otherwise sobre collection, the organic forms quite strongly recall artworks by dadaist Jean Arp.

Victoriina přehlídka byla jako vždy skvělá. Podala nám ostře definované modely, které byly založeny na perfektním šití a kvalitních materiálech. I když se kolekce pohybovala víceméně jen v rozmezí černé, bílé a červené, objevily se tam také čtyři outfity s více organickým dotekem. Nejprve působící jako nervózní vkročení do neznámých vod, ale brzy nato vody byly úspěšně zkroceny a Victoria nám nabídla sebevědomou hru s barvami. Navíc, možná aby obohatila jinak střízlivou kolekci o uměleckou stránku, ony již organické formy celkem silně připomínají umělecká díla dadaisty Jeana Arpa. 

The only thing I really didn't like were the shoes. In close-up I didn't find them attractive in any possible way (and there are many types of attractiveness, surely), although on the other hand these outfits weren't calling for feminine stilettos but instead heels (and flats) worth a strong confident woman. And such a woman can pull off anything. 

Jediná věc co se mi opravdu nelíbila byly boty. Ani po pečlivém prozkoumání fotek detailů se mi nezdály atraktivní z jakéhokoli možného hlediska - a ono těch hledisek může být hodně, že. Na druhou stranu je pravda, že tyto outfity nevolaly po frivolních jehlách, ale namísto toho po podpatcích (a 'flats') hodných silné sebevědomé ženy. A taková žena dokáže unosit cokoli.

Wednesday, 12 February 2014

Tziporah Salamon: know your body first

EN: A wonderful interview with Tziporah Salamon for anyone interested in fashion, aesthetics and developing very own style. Beware, probably not very helpful for trend followers.

CS: Skvělé interview s Tziporah Salamon vhodné pro kohokoli se zaujetím pro módu, estetiku a rozvíjení vlastního stylu. Pozor, pravděpodobně ne moc užitečné pro přívržence trendů. 

The Row: less is more

EN: I've never been a fan of celebrities pursuing careers of fashion designers. I mean, the fact that they have money to launch a brand doesn't mean that they can be legitimately called designers (except for Victoria Beckham, that's a different story). Therefore, I've never been interested in collections of the Olsens' brand The Row. Ok, maybe it was strongly influenced by the fact that I thought about most of their films that they were stupid and never really got all the hype about them. 

But today I've clicked on a certain button on to finally view their latest collection. I was shocked. In a very good way. I loved it. It was completely completely my style (let's say what I wish to wear or if I was a designer what I would design). Being a hater of all sorts of unnecessary embellishments and stupidities on top of coats, dresses and all sorts of outfits there was no other option than to eagerly welcome the collection. It was clean, simple, beautifully cut and fitted and spoke of taste and classiness. 

Less is more. Amen. 

CS: Nikdy jsem nebyla velkým příznivcem celebrit pokoušejících se rozjet kariéru jako módní návrháři. Fakt, že mají peníze na to založit značku z nich prostě nedělá návrháře. Tečka. Teda kromě Victorie Beckham, ale to je jiný příběh. Tím pádem jsem se nikdy moc nezajímala o The Row - značku Olsenových dvojčat. Ok, možná to bylo i zapříčiněno tím, že se mi většina jejich filmů nelíbila a nikdy jsem v podstatě moc nepochopila všechen ten 'hype' kolem nich.

Dnes jsem však klikla na na jejich poslední kolekci. Byla jsem šokovaná. V dobrém slova smyslu. Byl to totiž naprosto ale naprosto můj styl (řekněme, že se jednalo o typ oblečení, o kterém sním a který být návrhářkou bych zcela jistě navrhovala). Plus pro mě, jakožto odpůrce všech nezbytných ozdob a stupidit na kabátech, šatech a všech možných druzích oblečků, tady nebyla jiná možnost než tu přijmout s naprostým nadšením. Vše bylo jednoduché, čistý design, nádherně střižené a skvěle padnoucí a vypovídající o vkusu a stylovosti nositelky.

Méně je více. Amen.

Monday, 10 February 2014

Public School: a dark love poem

EN: Finally someone did it. This is what I want to wear all day long. 

Even though the collection featured mostly menswear (and who says that menswear couldn't serve as inspiration for womenswear, right) it was fierce. It was the type of clothes that were wearable, comfy yet totally stylish. Of course that I love all those elaborate outfits (Paris FW, huh?) which makes one dream of better days but let's be honest most of the days are far from ideal. Sometimes they might be bit exciting but often they are just average or in the worst case (but hopefully the least possible one) plain bad. And especially in winter. In that case, the only thing I want to do is to hide in all sorts of coats, capes and sweaters (preferably dark) and hope that spring comes as fast as possible. And I can say that Public School's interpreted my feelings in a pretty appealing way. 

(Plus I am a determined supporter of return of hats to the streets - and in this collection were plenty to see.)  


CS: Konečně! Toto je přesně to, co bych mohla nosit celé dny. 

I když se kolekce Public School skládala především z pánských modelů (a kdo tvrdí, že pánská móda nemůže být inspiradí dámské, že) tak byla 'drsná'. Je to přesně to oblečení, které je nositelné, pohodlné a ještě k tomu naprosto stylové. Samozřejmě, že miluji všechny ty do nejnemenšího detailu propracované outfity (pařižský FW?), které člověka přimějí ke snění o lepších zítřcích. Ale buďme upřímní, většina dní má k ideálu daleko. Někdy můžou být mírně vzrušující, ale ve většině případů jsou prostě průměrné nebo v nejhorším případě (ale snad v nejméně pravděpodobném) prostě špatné. A hlavně v zimě. V takovém případě toužím po jediné věci - schovat se v nejrůznějších kabátech, kápích a svetrech (pokud možno tmavých) a doufat, že jaro přijde co nejrychleji to jde. A můžu říct, že Public School podalo mé pocity docela atraktivním způsobem. 

(Plus jsem zarputilým zastáncem návratu klobouků do ulic - a v této kolekci jich bylo hodně k vidění.)

Saturday, 8 February 2014

Mariano Fortuny: a real fashion artist

EN: When fashion becomes art.

I used to be convinced that fashion equals art. Don't take me wrong, in a way I still am. But before, I thought that all fashion is art. I didn't really think about it much and I simply thought that being able to have the same enjoyment in fashion creations as in the art ones puts fashion on the same pedestal. I was wrong and I think everyone knows why.

CS: Když z módy se stane umění. 

Bývala jsem přesvědčená, že móda rovná se umění. Pro ujasněnou, svým způsobem stále jsem. Ale dřív jsem si myslela, že všechna móda je umění. Vlastně jsem o tom moc nepřemýšlela a jednoduše se domnívala, že když se dokáži kochat módními kreacemi do stejné míry jako těmi uměleckými tak móda patří na ten samý piedestal. Mýlila jsem se a myslím, že všichní víme proč.

EN: The mass-produced garments might be created by a genius but at the same time they aren't productions of the genius. They are a mere response to the market demand. They aren't made with a free hand of an artist since their only aim is to get sold as fast as possible. And as you know many artists got accepted way after their deaths, while often being loathed during their lifetime. But fashion doesn't work like that, and, of course, it would be silly if it worked so. 

CS: Masově produkové oděvy mohou být vytvořeny géniusem, ale zároveň nejsou výtvory génia. Jsou pohou reakcí na tržní poptávku. Nebyly vytvořeny svobodnou rukou umělce, neboť jejich jediný účel je, aby se prodaly tak rychle jen co to je možné. A jak víte spousta umělců byla přijata až dlouho po své smrti, zatímco během svého života byli terčem výsměchu. Móda tak nefunguje a bylo by hloupé kdyby tak fungovala.

EN: But here is an example of an extraordinary work of art. Yes, a work of art. Mariano Fortuny was an inventor and his dresses were real artistic experiments whose elaborate technique is unrepeatable. In them he tried to create a 'total' dress that wouldn't just provide the wearer a fanciful covering of her body but would make her pure beauty stand out more than anything else - one of the requirements was not to wear anything under the dress. The woman became a part of the artwork. A living sculpture one might say.

CS: Tady však máme příklad výjimečného uměleckého díla. Ano, uměleckého díla. Mariano Fortuny byl vynálezce, jehož šaty byly opravdové umělecké experimenty, jejichž komplikovaná technika je jednoduše dnes neopakovatelná. S nimi se pokoušel vytvořit 'absolutní' šaty, které by neposkytovaly ženě jen nápadité pokrytí těla, ale víc než cokoli jiného dokázaly nechat vyniknout její ryzí krásu - jedním požadavkem však bylo, aby žena neměla nic pod šaty, žádné spodní prádlo. Z ženy samotné se  tak stalo umělecké dílo. Jeden by řekl, že žijící socha.