tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22058194045641553052024-03-14T11:17:19.115+08:00against fashionAdahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.comBlogger26125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-32833874360990435842014-04-18T10:19:00.002+08:002014-04-18T10:19:49.712+08:00NOT dead<span style="font-family: inherit;">Hello hello!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I just wanted to say: this blog is NOT dead. Trust me. It’s just that the workload at HKU is pretty terrific and I turned into a hermit living in the library. But soon it’ll be over and I'll start properly posting!:)</span>Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-24283020211872091682014-03-13T20:10:00.000+08:002014-03-14T06:34:36.119+08:00fashion: H&M knock-offs <div style="text-align: justify;">
It was about time to do some spring shopping. Though I guess that a black cardigan and a pair of black jeans aren't very springy. Never mind. </div>
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Wandering about the Cityplaza in Taikoo proved to be an "interesting experience". First of all, there happened to be some fire alarm - I say some because I had no idea what was going on (my Cantonese is limited to "m goi") but I know that I was suddenly shut in the mall. At least I managed to run away via MTR (subway). </div>
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Anyway, in the meantime I went to H&M. It's a kind of a shop that was my major shopping destination throughout my teenage years and, unfortunately, I'm still forced to return there. Not exactly forced, but there are not many other options of clothes with prices suitable for a student budget.</div>
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Oh, I should get to the point. Ok, now.<b> Is it just me or they really released items "inspired" by Mary Katrantzou?</b> I mean, the fashion show in London was only about 3 weeks ago?! Fast fashion at it's best.</div>
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Well, everyone knows the H&M and such heavily derive from designer collections. Nothing new. However, what "worries" me is the fact that... <b>what happened to fashion seasons? </b>Mary's collection is supposed to be Autumn/Winter 2014-15 while high-street shops are already selling its knock-offs? <b>Will the collection remain relevant after all? Or, paradoxically, will it become outdated once it hits the stores?</b> Since it features quite a distinct imagery it's highly possible. Sadly.</div>
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<i>(I wanted to take pictures of the items I'm talking about - but there was the fire alarm.)</i></div>
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Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-2584896271491975042014-03-12T22:31:00.000+08:002014-03-12T22:36:16.590+08:00fashion: do women want stupid magazines, or not<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Why are men’s magazines so better than women’s?</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Recently, I had a lazy afternoon and stopped by magazines at the supermarket. Since I’m in Hong Kong and have absolutely no knowledge of Chinese (ok, I can say thank you) I overlooked HK versions of Elle and others, and my eyes fell onto all the Vogues, Bazaars and Elles from Britain, US and other countries. I skimmed through them and didn’t like them. However, that’s not the sole reason that made me write a post on it. I'm aware of the fact that these magazines have become foldable billboards. Even though, I must admit on occasions it makes me sad. However, the reason is that I also skimmed through men’s style/fashion magazines (GQ, Monocle, Esquire etc.). And, <b>o-m-g, I stood there for more than twenty minutes, reading and reading and just enjoying sharp and witty articles - for men. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I knew that it wasn't me, because even though I'm not a girly girl I'm not manly. At least I believe so. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The difference is that men’s magazines, those basically dealing with the same stuff - style, were written in <b>anticipation of much more clever audience - men</b>. Just look at the amount of text and even on the size of it! Articles are long, interesting, not much dealing with sex and the font size is often considerably smaller = even more text. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Come on, is sex the only thing women want to read about? It's getting boring, no? All the time all the same. Not even creative in any sense. Or, diets? Eat less and exercise more. That's it. There's no other secret in it. <b>I want to learn something new from each article, not to read a 'poetic' form of publicity.</b> I want to learn something about the women who rule the world! Haha, ok now I'm exaggerating but it's only because I went to a bookshop today and there was NO biography of a single woman. Only men. (and, beware, I don't consider myself a feminist, it's just that I'm noticing stuff and they make me sad/mad)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Are really women that stupid? I don't think so (hopefully). Or do they see fashion magazines as a refuge which enables them to switch to the mode of no thinking and just "enjoying" advertisements? Perhaps (sadly). But then I don't understand paying for it (Google = free?).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Hmm?</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: inherit;">(By the way, has anyone read the Porter? Any opinions?)</span></i></div>
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Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-25955760501517377592014-03-10T21:17:00.001+08:002014-03-10T21:18:43.206+08:00fashion: regular outfits<div style="min-height: 14px;">
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Do you think about what you wear?</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I know that fashion bloggers who take photos of their outfits basically on a daily basis definitely do. I know that picking an outfit is never a totally unconscious process. So I should perhaps rephrase my question. <i>To what extent </i>do you think about what you wear? <i>Too much? Too little?</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Recently, I’ve been thinking a bit about why I wear what I wear. For outfits I consider deliberately picked </span>enables and<span style="font-family: inherit;"> I’ve realized that in most cases </span>I dress on impulse with not much thinking but lots of laziness involved. <span style="font-family: inherit;">This is probably because of my very </span>limited range of choices and no budget for shopping sprees. </div>
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But still it made me think... is it wrong? or right? In a way, I feel under pressure. I know that no one really cares and it's probably only my very inner pressure, but because I absolutely love fashion I feel obliged to create some amazing outfits which would have the power to catch attention of street photographer at all times. (Un)fortunately, I'm not that type of person but it makes me feel as if I was fake.<b> Am I faking my love for fashion? Do I need to prove the world my interest through bold fashion statements? Or is it possible to love fashion but assume a role of a quite observer? </b></div>
<br />Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-42181716564379472014-03-08T11:47:00.004+08:002014-03-08T12:04:32.832+08:00fashion: power<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ0wopEu23F_sJtndnlbRz0WjYLgzJGbUINOEaYnzore9oA3ZXsUgzzdi_UcIKppeU6_o1MH82AqTpns8kO4Eq6l1SfE_fSIjSU0h3gOXg6wNyaRXrRJr0-tSqnbLjm3EgWwwfjqcj7iM/s1600/Untitled-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ0wopEu23F_sJtndnlbRz0WjYLgzJGbUINOEaYnzore9oA3ZXsUgzzdi_UcIKppeU6_o1MH82AqTpns8kO4Eq6l1SfE_fSIjSU0h3gOXg6wNyaRXrRJr0-tSqnbLjm3EgWwwfjqcj7iM/s1600/Untitled-2.jpg" height="308" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">From time to time <b>life reminds me of what I truly love about fashion</b>, of its true sense. I realize <b>how empowering fashion is</b>. It’s the reason why I consider fashion so important in our lives and why I believe that everyone who dismisses fashion as stupid and shallow has just missed the point. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Fashion has <b>the power to give us voice in situations we cannot speak or are prohibited to speak</b>. It's the easiest way to express disagreement. After all, fashion has often acted as a very first step of revolutions of any sorts. And coming from an ex-communist country, I can assure you that during those dark days fashion mattered more than you'd think since the government regarded it as a threat. It was a threat because communism didn't want people to think - independently. It didn't want people to express their opinions. And so, one of the ways to suppress any kind of individualism was to control fashion. <i>After all, everything was controlled. </i>Because even though we often aren't aware of that, fashion completely transforms one's personality. It changes the body language, ways of thinking and behaving, and even the way of speaking. But more importantly fashion has the wonderful ability to give us more confidence. And on top of that, not only that it changes the personality of the wearer, but it also changes the attitude of people towards him/her. The way one expresses oneself determines what other people think about him/her and it has often a lasting impact which is hard to change. <b>Fashion matters.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Fashion can be much more than you think. It's neither shopping nor selfies in the mirror. <b>It's who we are.</b></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: inherit;">(P.S. I'm trying to figure out how to transfer sketches and drawings into digital images so my first efforts are and will be rather ridiculous, sorry, although I don't aspire to make them 'beautiful' either way)</span></i><br />
<br />Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-87346979734772016862014-03-06T14:53:00.001+08:002014-03-07T10:25:59.506+08:00Chanel: the biggest disappointment, ever<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb43Bm81giukEYtGpRebUQ8Av6a1_4IymmPL6zbGdEhFffHw6qB3DwDXofjpxJ6rv2HFq6JcvYWT_9_W5YPXTqocjeIAQmUfaUVLMQAPBfECCkpFEep-s555RZzOYenT6ftzAq70Vzdnw/s1600/CHA_0055.450x675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb43Bm81giukEYtGpRebUQ8Av6a1_4IymmPL6zbGdEhFffHw6qB3DwDXofjpxJ6rv2HFq6JcvYWT_9_W5YPXTqocjeIAQmUfaUVLMQAPBfECCkpFEep-s555RZzOYenT6ftzAq70Vzdnw/s1600/CHA_0055.450x675.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfDFaqw6u_c-tjpBB33Byduz3UGPBagBeLMMGRaRYe3ZBMeSqzKLBKD-LgOIx7Py-ubGvjKWtEbFEfdJv3y_umzeYMosZPjsGflLX_cVc0SWOFbV1FKPMBzVlLjEmXPoZU1JG9Ty1f79c/s1600/CHA_0098.450x675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfDFaqw6u_c-tjpBB33Byduz3UGPBagBeLMMGRaRYe3ZBMeSqzKLBKD-LgOIx7Py-ubGvjKWtEbFEfdJv3y_umzeYMosZPjsGflLX_cVc0SWOFbV1FKPMBzVlLjEmXPoZU1JG9Ty1f79c/s1600/CHA_0098.450x675.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a><br />
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; font-family: inherit; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">The setting might have been innovative and overall turning the show into a </span>spectacular <span style="font-family: inherit;">performance. However, </span><b style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; font-family: inherit; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">something has gone terribly wrong if it's the setting what takes the spotlight from the real stars of the show</b><span style="font-family: inherit;"> - the clothes. (<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLDUXZ4X5b8"><i><b>watch the show</b></i></a> - I like the music though)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-3_bXpGluNGD1q-wbsi9whYbeuPXh1qbQXRnhjiJJ7KHcSboUMd6UHuVVuISv8fMoHnwQupMiOtIqtT9CjFSL57ayvOVRTyCJ5ezWSeA6BbvKPc34JfG41tlLfLFqWo31kuEp7dYaCTk/s1600/CHA_0139.450x675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-3_bXpGluNGD1q-wbsi9whYbeuPXh1qbQXRnhjiJJ7KHcSboUMd6UHuVVuISv8fMoHnwQupMiOtIqtT9CjFSL57ayvOVRTyCJ5ezWSeA6BbvKPc34JfG41tlLfLFqWo31kuEp7dYaCTk/s1600/CHA_0139.450x675.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvFJGAYckEwE1IjLa6k-RFEvrm_kQynEY-4iafT-1kmV4YYETDY22s-aTUEktKSOP21vcuczjSZ1il784j1Ai-1-EHH5LWpN3uDPpV5j10zXVcXJYqxoewg1t0s1kyJfiw2QsvxhB2sL8/s1600/CHA_0241.450x675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvFJGAYckEwE1IjLa6k-RFEvrm_kQynEY-4iafT-1kmV4YYETDY22s-aTUEktKSOP21vcuczjSZ1il784j1Ai-1-EHH5LWpN3uDPpV5j10zXVcXJYqxoewg1t0s1kyJfiw2QsvxhB2sL8/s1600/CHA_0241.450x675.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a><br />
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<div style="orphans: auto; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px; widows: auto;" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; font-family: inherit; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">It feels like Karl's gone mad. I mean, </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; font-family: inherit; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><b>where's that Chanel everyone knows and loves? </b></span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; font-family: inherit; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">We can accept </span> and eventually even love <span style="font-family: inherit;">his quirks, but now it's just too much. Is he trying to reposition the brand and</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> appeal to younger customers? Maybe Cara </span>bewitched<span style="font-family: inherit;"> him so much that he lost his mind. Because <b>it seems as if the collection </b></span><b>was</b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b> designed for Cara and her friends.</b> But, in general, young buyers don't have the purchase power, Karl. Not yet. And when they’ll get to that stage, they’ll already be grown up and desiring the classy Chanel, not some <b>tacky pieces which could easily compete with <a href="http://againstfashion.blogspot.hk/2014/02/moschino-help-me-understand-this-urgh.html"><i>Moschino</i></a>.</b> And Moschino has been ‘specializing’ in imitating Chanel so wouldn’t it be ironic to follow Moschino?</span></div>
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<b><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; font-family: inherit; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">I can </span>barely</b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b> see anything I like.</b> And I'm not the type of person who's looking for </span>conventional beauty.<span style="font-family: inherit;"> If it wasn't Karl Lagerfeld but<b> some other designer, I'm sure that he'd be ripped apart.</b> Even when I try to imagine the </span>clothes<span style="font-family: inherit;"> without the </span>setting<span style="font-family: inherit;"> or as individual pieces they just don't make the cut. Did he use the supermarket background to distract people from the actual collection? If so, lucky him, not many other designer could afford such an expensive stage set.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I'm not sure if it's not even too much</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> to please fashion victims. On the other hand, some who would wear anything hideous enough to attract street style photographers. But it's not them who generate profits, right. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">So where is </span>the<span style="font-family: inherit;"> Chanel </span>silhouette? It's there, in bits and pieces, looking like <b>a cheese after a mice feast</b>. Other outfits looked like<b> working overalls </b>(nothing against working overalls but it was too literal)<b> </b>and others like <b>unfortunate efforts to revive 80s.</b> The outfits above? T<b>oxic birthday cakes. </b>And what happened to the wonderful trainers from the couture show? They were turned into boots. <b>Not wonderful anymore.</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">But what I resent the most are these leggings/overalls (up).<b> Look at the crotch.</b> I mean, it's always been a </span>nightmare<span style="font-family: inherit;"> to get trousers with a baggy crotch, and I don't think that Chanel will ever change it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I know that from my comments you can assume that I hate Chanel. Not really. I only hate this collection. It was probably the biggest </span>disappointment<span style="font-family: inherit;"> of this season, and just from browsing fashion </span>forums I see that it's not just me. <b>Hope that Karl learns his lesson. He should accept the fact that he's still a human being, not a god.</b></div>
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Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-23204245012866734982014-03-05T08:50:00.000+08:002014-03-05T08:51:40.517+08:00Comme des Garçons: monsters of art<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-US"><b>The latest Comme des
Garçons collection hardly falls into the category of fashion</b>. Obviously, none
of the outfits would be either flattering or merely functional. Unless
your desired look is a <b>"monster"</b> - the very name </span><span lang="EN-US">Rei Kawakubo </span><span lang="EN-US">called her collection
of bizarre creatures. But what monsters did she mean? The monsters of the real world, of fashion industry, or of our own mind? </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-US">The collection </span><span lang="EN-US">is</span><span lang="EN-US"> incredible. </span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">It’s a transformation of
fashion to art.</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Therefore, it is
impossible, perhaps even inappropriate, to view the collection from the same
perspective from which one views Lanvin or Dior shows. Why not? Even though,
they all “did the same thing” (the setting was a catwalk at PFW and the
performance consisted of walking), they all oscillated on completely different
levels. By that I don’t meant that one is better than another. It’s just that
Lanvin or Dior is still operating within the realm of fashion and luxury, a
category to which they have been faithful ever since. Whereas Comme des Garçons
has confidently moved from fashion to the realms of art. Performance art? Not really,
Conceptual art? Perhaps. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">But if I dare to call the collection
a conceptual art <b>what is the concept?</b> Let have the creator speak:</span></div>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;">"The theme of the collection this time is MONSTER.
It's not about the typical Monster you find in sci-fi and video games. The
expression of the Monsters I have made has a much deeper meaning. The craziness
of humanity, the fear we all have, the feeling of going beyond common sense,
the absence of ordinariness, expressed by something extremely big, by something
that could be ugly or beautiful. In other words, I wanted to question the
established standards of beauty."</span></span></blockquote>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I believe that later in shops you'll find very different clothes - wearable pieces for which this collection
is only a point of reference. Not only that it's a quite common practice, to
adjust clothes for retail, but it's also the fact that these
pieces are impossible to be worn. It’s hard to think about anyone strong
enough to wear such ensembles. <b>They are destined to remain behind a
vitrine in a museum.</b> Even though it was only an ordinary catwalk that was
turned into a stage, such performance was to be seen only once. If repeated, its
power and meaning would be lost. </span></span>To retail them and actually wear them would mean to strip them off their aura.<span style="font-family: inherit;"> Yet, it wasn't truly a performance
art although I describe it in terms of one. The models who would be
normally assumed to have the role of performers became only a mere bases
whose function was only to let the clothes speak for themselves. In a way,
it's nothing new, models have been called "coat hangers" for a reason.
But here their role was exploited to the fullest and they were stripped off any other possible function beyond walking. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Recently, more and
more people have started to call fashion art. Often it’s only because
they've mistaken the appreciation of fashion for appreciation of art. However,
a mere feeling of “liking” is not enough to justify the equation of
fashion = art. The reason for that is simple. The <b>great art goes deep
beyond the surface, while in the case of fashion it is the surface what matters
the most. </b>I'm aware that some people would object to such a claim. I
know that many believe that being a fashion designer is actually being an
artist. In some cases, it's possible that an artistic genius decides to devote
his/her life to fashion. But to be honest, it'd be usually for economical
reasons. Everyone needs money and art rarely pays the bills. Unless you're
Damien Hirst, of course. In other cases, designers are skillful artisans with a
certain degree of creativity who might have some artistic impulses but their
works are mostly driven by the market. They create what they believe will sell.
And this belief is not based on mere intuition but on a vast market research,
trend forecasting and figures from last seasons. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Nevertheless, a
closer look reveals that </span><b style="font-family: inherit;">both art and fashion go in parallel with the way they
reflect their subjects and tackle certain issues.</b><span style="font-family: inherit;"> I'm sure everyone has noticed that in art a </span><b style="font-family: inherit;">sense of ugliness has been preferred over
beauty</b><span style="font-family: inherit;"> (e.g. Tracey Emin's infamous My Bed) lately. The same goes for
fashion. Often, you see creations which might be praised by the fashion folks
but misunderstood by the rest of the public. The clothes are often unflattering and ugly, but
in contrast to </span><i style="font-family: inherit;">Monsters</i><span style="font-family: inherit;"> they are still functional. Their
surface appearance also gives the wearer a hope of being something
more and a belief of </span>understanding fashion more than others.<span style="font-family: inherit;"> Because after all he/she is going against conventions and that must be for a reason. There might be one, but such cases
are rare. Often, the hopes and beliefs are only fake aspirations.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">In his latest
collection, Alber Elbaz tried to take fashion to extremes but he took it to
extremes which were still within the boundaries of fashion. Or rather within
his own boundaries. Whereas, here, <b>Rei took fashion out of its boundaries</b>,
confidently exploring what the world outside had on offer. As I said before, I believe that the clothes are destined for a museum, not for a real world. In real
life, clothes should be a "base" that enables one to showcase
his/her very own personality. However, these pieces would be rather
suffocating than empowering. They would say nothing about one's personality because <b>Rei's message is too strong and there's no room for
its further development</b>. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">It takes time. I
wasn’t prepared to see this kind of collection even though Kawakubo is
certainly not famous for being conventional. <b>One needs to swap fashion lenses
for the art ones. Then, everything starts to make sense. </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Sorry. I got carried off. But <b>is there anything better than fashion/art that makes you think?</b></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>Apparently I miss my regular
dose of essays.</i></span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 11.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-61124324108268523642014-03-03T09:03:00.000+08:002014-03-04T11:10:16.627+08:00Lanvin: elegance and backpacks<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="text-align: justify;"><b>Nostalgic of the old days,</b></span><span style="text-align: justify;"><b> Alber Elbaz said he wanted to bring extravagance back to fashion.</b> It was about time. I've started to miss those theatrical fashion shows of the late 90s.</span><br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">Being a fond lover of hats, I was intrigued. A variety of simple headgears complemented with an abundance of fringes had an ability to empower the women even more strongly than the clothes. Their looks became enigmatic and bewitching. A dream? </span></div>
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Even though one can't really talk about fur in terms of seasons and trends, I need to say that it seems that <b>fur is becoming bigger once again</b> (ethical issues aside). It wasn't only at Lanvin's show but at many others. Be it fake or real, fur from luxury brands is simply expensive. <b>It seems that the fashion industry has become tired of the democratization of fashion</b> and desires to become once again a realm of mystery and dreams. Highly priced, hardly affordable. More exclusive.</div>
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And don't forget to <b>notice the backpacks</b> (yes, the model on the left is wearing a fur backpack)! Who would expect them at Lanvin's show? Well, not me. It's actually interesting that Alber picked this type of backpacks than any other to show off the experimental nature of his collection. Especially because this type (sorry I don't know whether there's any proper name for it) is really <b>huge in Asia</b>, or at least in Hong Kong. I barely saw them in Europe, but here everyone has one. Probably they're really practical, though I haven't fallen for them yet. Anyway, I don't know what Lanvin's sales are in Asia, but it might help increase them a tiny bit. On the other hand, it might be understandable that Alber decided to work with these backpacks. They're simple and one can easily play with them around and eventually even turn them into pieces of luxury. </div>
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As Alber Elbaz said he wanted to go to extremes. That was a risky decision but it paid off big. Overall, the collection felt to me as a play on the pristine elegance of the old days and on the changing women's needs of nowadays. Women aren't caught in golden cages anymore. Women live to the fullest and they're more strong and powerful than ever before. The looks were glamorous yet rough, gloomy yet playful. But definitely they were empowering. </div>
Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-29717676047943357032014-03-02T08:16:00.000+08:002014-03-02T08:36:08.476+08:00Christian Dior: the red and pink rule<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<b>You should know that I've "had a crush" on Christian Dior ever since. </b>I love everything about the house and I would simply die for a job there. So, my perspective might be little bit biased. Although, I must admit that I liked Dior more with Galliano than with Raf Simons (I've always been into history, and so I'd naturally fallen for Galliano's revivals). When it comes to this collection, I liked some bits of it and not so much the others but I'm going to focus on what I liked. To begin with, <b>I'm especially excited about the way Raf combined the uncombinable: red and pink. </b>Love it.<br />
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Also, I really really like <b>the texture </b>of the dresses. I wish I could see the clothes in real life and closely examine every little detail of them. Look at them, there's some great technology going on.<br />
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When it comes to shoes, I loved the way they look on runway - meaning from the front. Though after seeing the close ups I was surprised and had a bit of mixed feelings. <b>A hybrid between sneakers and heels</b>? Hmm. Actually, why not? <b>They're so ugly they're beautiful.</b> Except those with short heels, they are ugly and will stay ugly. Sorry.<br />
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Another thing I noticed were the gloves. Colourful long gloves have already appeared in other shows this season, but they resembled more gloves for washing up than something I actually would like to wear out of my home. Even though here, I still see in them some "washing up" elements, they look more elegant than crude. <b>Everyone has the black ones why not to go for the stripes.</b><br />
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Apart from shoes, what really caught my attention were the dresses. No, they weren't crazy.<b> They were combining striking colours, but eventually they were actually pretty sober</b> (and I love simplicity, aah). And the way the jewellery on the dresses appeared to be broken gave the whole ensembles a nice 'rebellious' touch. But anyway, what I really loved about them was <b>the layering</b>, because it didn't seem only fresh but it actually revived in me an enthusiasm for sewing. I mean, <b>I could actually make such dresses at home. </b>Let's just put two dresses together <i>et voilà.</i><br />
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Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-68430939053002817462014-02-28T21:27:00.000+08:002014-03-02T00:31:02.483+08:00Gareth Pugh: ugh<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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From the beginning there was something strongly familiar which left me till the end of the show trying hard to figure out what it was. <b>What did the outfits remind me of? What was the thread going through the collection?</b></div>
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Obviously, the collection was all about white instead of conventional dark colours which are usually used in winter collections. Even though using summer vocabulary, Pugh still managed to make the collection appear pretty frosty and wintery - the fabulous draping made the models look as if they just came out of a snowstorm, yet still strong and powerful enough to face the world. </div>
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You can't go wrong with white, right? And the draping is simply amazing. <b>But o-m-g the materials.</b><br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">Look at the clothes. Closely. Observe. Pay attention to every possible shape. </span></div>
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Do they remind you of something?</div>
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Pugh claimed that there's no particular statement behind his clothes. Okey. </div>
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But what the collection says to me is that designers have truly no boundaries when it comes to sources of inspiration. The whole time when I was trying to figure out what is the thread behind the collection, I knew that <b>it was something so common that I wouldn't even consider it as an option.</b> Yet, I got it. Eventually.</div>
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To me, <b>the whole collection could be translated into the vocabulary of tissue papers, post-it notes, cotton wool, scotch tape, plastic bags, rubber gums and glue.</b> A stationery shop? </div>
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To understand my opinion (which might possibly sound as utter nonsense, I admit), I'll pick some outfits and try to prove my point.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPcaQJaCGbJ_i4r-WHhSeCW68sX7gHzjbFJZdXYbfjnGqR69XxBsEze4ChbWzmRdngui8IMcrP1N1tLxeQycUeHVgDdSDakOGxtYkciN4NdXYUfIB4leodzyzBqS3VKwR9NoCWkprliM4/s1600/_KIM0063.450x675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPcaQJaCGbJ_i4r-WHhSeCW68sX7gHzjbFJZdXYbfjnGqR69XxBsEze4ChbWzmRdngui8IMcrP1N1tLxeQycUeHVgDdSDakOGxtYkciN4NdXYUfIB4leodzyzBqS3VKwR9NoCWkprliM4/s1600/_KIM0063.450x675.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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Let's start from the left (up).</div>
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<i>Dress no. 1: <b>A rhapsody of tissue paper.</b></i></div>
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The dress is draped wonderfully. But it's just that the whole thing looks too much like <b>a giant tissue paper wrapped around the model's body. </b></div>
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<i>Dress no. 2: <b>Nothing but post-it notes.</b></i></div>
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Seriously, when looking at this dress I imagine those wannabe funny scenes from sitcoms, when the victim happens to be covered in some sort of mysterious liquid and the only way out of this sticky situation is to end up looking like <b>a snowman out of post-it notes</b> (or in more conventional scenes out of feathers). Don't ask me what scene it was. Maybe I just have too much imagination.</div>
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<span style="text-align: center;"><i>Dress no. 3: <b>Tinfoil</b>.</i></span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">Do you remember the days when you were trying to cast your hand in tinfoil? Maybe not. Even though I am officially (only officially, please) an adult, I have to admit that I actually sometimes try to cast my fingers in the tinfoil from </span>chocolate bars. Don't ask me why. Probably there's some inner sculptor hiding deep inside me. Anyway, that's all this dress recalls to me. The lazy moments when I play with tinfoil. But here <b>the tinfoil looks more harmful than playful.</b></div>
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<i>Dress no. 4: <b>When I put used tissue paper into a plastic bag.</b></i></div>
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I think that my caption needs no further explanation. As I said, apparently I have too much imagination.</div>
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<span style="text-align: center;"><i>Dress no. 5: <b>A giant cotton bud.</b></i></span><br />
<span style="text-align: center;">OK. Here I couldn't decide between plain cotton wool or a cotton bud. But, you know, the legs of the model look like sticks so the cotton bud was a clear choice. </span><br />
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<span style="text-align: center;"><i>Dress no. 6: <b>Cupcake baking cups.</b></i></span><br />
<span style="text-align: center;">Now, I'd like to have some cupcake. And I'd like to try on the coat just because I can't figure out how it works in real life. I mean is it wearable or is it just a matter of catwalk? I want to know!</span><br />
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<i>Dress no. 7: <b>A scotch tape torture.</b></i></div>
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Is Russian mafia torturing her? I can't imagine how painful it can be just to remove the tape off your body. <i>(I hope you've already realized that I like to use irony and metaphors. I'm just sayin'.)</i></div>
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<i>Dress no. 8: <b>Plastic bags heaven.</b></i></div>
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This dress seems to be pretty eco-friendly. I mean, they found a new (fashionable) use for plastic bags.<span style="text-align: center;"> The d</span><span style="text-align: center;">raping is great though.</span></div>
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Well, as you have noticed I am not really a fan of this collection. I like the shapes, the draping, but... </div>
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Anyway, maybe it's just me since I have a phobia of all white plastic stuff. It gets yellow over time, looks filthy and disgusting. I still wish my parents gave me for birthday black iPhone instead of the white one, but they assumed that I wanted to be trendy and get the hottest iPhone of that time. </div>
Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-43600377088137967282014-02-27T06:49:00.001+08:002014-02-27T06:51:26.588+08:00film: Mrs. Arris goes to Paris<div style="text-align: justify;">
Sometimes I crave <b>a simple film</b> (with nice costumes) that <b>would not be a pain to watch but also would not demand much thinking of me</b>. With <i>Mrs. Arris goes to Paris</i> I can happily tick all the boxes.</div>
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Even though the film, set in 50s Paris, is more like a fairy tale for adults - ok, for adult women, one can still spot some depth in it. That is in the approach towards clothes, towards the proper luxurious clothes. Just watch how determined Mrs. Harris was to get one Dior dress, what she was able to crucify for it, and <b>then think about what Fashion truly meant to people.</b></div>
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That <b>"appreciation" of fashion is what I'm missing today. </b>Or maybe it's the impact of my current environment of Hong Kong. Where else is one more surrounded by luxury brands on every single step than in Hong Kong? What other city can be likened to a huge shopping mall and still it'd not be an exaggeration? </div>
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The world has turned into a consumption bubble that is all about consuming a product in one second, and getting rid of it the another. Sigh.</div>
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Anyway, on a happy note, fashion week in Paris has slowly started. Let's go there with Mrs. Harris. Nevermind, if it's just fictitiously.</div>
<br />Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-6177366417072688652014-02-21T19:31:00.000+08:002014-02-24T19:18:06.323+08:00Moschino: help me understand this (URGH)<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Be honest, please. </span><strong style="font-family: inherit;">Tell me whether you like this fashion show or not.</strong><span style="font-family: inherit;"> And telling why is it so would be also nice of you. And do not feel any need to agree with me, I actually enjoy more of disagreement than agreement. Too many people agree with everyone and everything in this blogosphere.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Fashion people are one of the demographic groups (perhaps rare ones) where you find more people who dislike McDonald's than like. And if they tell you they love or actually eat at McDonald's, don't believe them. They are just being pretentious and trying to hide from you the latest diet they're on. So <b>is Jeremy Scott playing with paradoxes?</b> Maybe the McDonald's part of the collection was a statement declaring that models eat junk food (or not). Or that fashion becomes fast fashion. There are many possible interpretations. If there was any message with good intentions, it got lost. <b>The clothes were too much screaming for attention and just bit too literal. </b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlYtdaH4yghsIea7jlWcS5UksfYtu28PsfmslboVGbMnH6TltQfCov0-hWWnChv4gvGuKo2n6NHKzs4wcW0YXKC8ZbDUq7GYHc75ZsA5A8Q8bOAW43Aon2Qq0g31JgWYgOPaL5IhGlN7I/s1600/MOS_0587.450x675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlYtdaH4yghsIea7jlWcS5UksfYtu28PsfmslboVGbMnH6TltQfCov0-hWWnChv4gvGuKo2n6NHKzs4wcW0YXKC8ZbDUq7GYHc75ZsA5A8Q8bOAW43Aon2Qq0g31JgWYgOPaL5IhGlN7I/s1600/MOS_0587.450x675.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The same goes for the rest of the collection. <b>It was just too much.</b> The MOSCHINOs hanging all around the models were just tacky and I </span>couldn't<span style="font-family: inherit;"> imagine anyone who would really want to wear it. <b>Even fashion victims would put their hands off. </b>And sorry but a handbag as a top (or whatever it is supposed to be)? Are we on Etsy or what?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Nevertheless, there are<b> a couple of things I liked.</b> Really just a couple. I like <b>the coat</b>. It reminds me of my purchase failure in Hong Kong when I bought a similar coat in an anticipation of a tough winter which</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> has never actually come (I got carried off because of the </span>omnipresent air-con). Now the coat is in a suitcase waiting for a proper winter in England next year. Sadly, the Moschino one looks much better. Or fortunately for Moschino. Next are <b>the boots.</b> Put off all the MOSCHINOs and they are actually really nice. I like the idea of knee-high boots (which appeared on more catwalks this season) and I certainly will look for a similar pair for the next winter, trying hard to pull them off together with my HK coat.</div>
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Well, I think that I've said enough. </div>
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<i><b>Me no likey.</b></i></div>
Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-67732615322866706602014-02-20T20:58:00.000+08:002014-02-21T07:09:03.635+08:00Mulberry: Cara bags<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>What do you think about the Cara bags for Mulberry?</b><br />
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I have never been a big fan of Mulberry bags because they epitomized to me a sophisticated version of Guess bags and that to me always brought associations of fake social aspirations. In short, of wannabes. And to confirm my theory, just walk down the Ladies Market in Hong Kong - Mulberry fakes are one of its staples.</div>
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I'm not impressed by the collection since it's not a fashion miracle and it basically only well combines standard formulas. However, otherwise<b> it's very in time with trends</b>, if not little bit ahead. <b>Look at the straps. </b>I believe that there is a big trend coming - of handbags that can be worn as backpacks. I don't know whether Asia is ahead of trends or already late, but many people are starting to wear such handbags, and, hey, <b>they're really practical!</b> I know that we've already seen such bags with Fjallraven Kanken but their bags still look more backpack-ish than glam. So, in a way, Mulberry only put on them a Mulberry mask, glammed them up little bit and associated them with the It-girl Cara. Voilà Cara bags. </div>
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I have to admit that I really <b>like their functionality</b>. They're like a solution to my everyday dilemma when I decide what to take to school - a handbag or backpack? The handbag means sore arm and shoulder (ugh, the heavy laptop) while the backpack means just an unflattering look. And with such bags I could avoid the unflattering and go for the trendy.<br />
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If only I could afford one of them! Student life, sigh...<br />
<br />Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-46917988765953257912014-02-16T23:47:00.003+08:002014-02-16T23:47:48.720+08:00Belstaff: London power<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWlhXpiK0Wcb871bN_eVvl-tjRbFSiQRdrkgEJclex1eZ2a8ce93JeMyYdboUhSufukpIDN-tXxfMPE7FKw_SSs1hzI0lcrv10xrekau-_IXw2dKJWzh2JCA2sCnWSfyLBwpGsDPB9E-g/s1600/Belstaff_006_1366.450x675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWlhXpiK0Wcb871bN_eVvl-tjRbFSiQRdrkgEJclex1eZ2a8ce93JeMyYdboUhSufukpIDN-tXxfMPE7FKw_SSs1hzI0lcrv10xrekau-_IXw2dKJWzh2JCA2sCnWSfyLBwpGsDPB9E-g/s1600/Belstaff_006_1366.450x675.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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London fashion week has already started and I'm so behind (fortunately, I've had so little time). Anyway, I went fast through what was already shown and the collection by Belstaff really caught my eye. The outfits were just right for the British weather and if I could I would definitely wear them the next winter which I'll happily be back in the UK. </div>
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What I really like about this collection is the way the outfits are layered and styled, and then the jackets and coats! Overall, I see in there quite strong reminiscences of working class which is in a way mixed with the British punk. The whole collection certainly resonates with the London scene. Plus, the clothes seem to not only be nice garments that protect one against bad weather and make one warm, but also they seem to be able to incredibly empower the wearer. And the message of empowerment is pretty strong here. The Belstaff girl is definitely not a sweetie but, hey, it's a tough world out there! </div>
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Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-14034460512995195562014-02-13T22:03:00.000+08:002014-02-13T22:33:16.253+08:00Victoria Beckham: Jean Arp, maybe<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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EN: In one of my previous posts I mentioned The Row and their 'celebrity origins'. Here is another such example. Although, I think that<b> Victoria proved enough her status of a fashion designer </b>and doesn't really need any further introduction. </div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>CS: V jednom z předchozích postů jsem zmínila The Row a jejich 'celebrití počátky'. Tady je další takový příklad. I když myslím, že <b>Victoria již prokázala víc než dost, že je hodna statutu módního nárháře</b> a celkově vlastně ani není třeba ji více představovat. </i></span></div>
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Victoria's collection was as always great. She gave us s<b>harply defined outfits which are based on a perfect tailoring and quality materials.</b> Even though the collection revolved mostly around black, white and red, it also featured four outfits with a more organic touch. Sticking only to black and white at first, the outfits felt like nervously stepping into unknown waters with the waters being successfully tamed soon after as Victoria later offered us a confident play with colours. Moreover, perhaps to <b>add an artistic flair to otherwise sobre collection</b>, the organic forms quite strongly recall artworks by dadaist <b>Jean Arp.</b></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Victoriina přehlídka byla jako vždy skvělá. Podala nám <b>ostře definované modely, které byly založeny na perfektním šití a kvalitních materiálech.</b> I když se kolekce pohybovala víceméně jen v rozmezí černé, bílé a červené, objevily se tam také čtyři outfity s více organickým dotekem. Nejprve působící jako nervózní vkročení do neznámých vod, ale brzy nato vody byly úspěšně zkroceny a Victoria nám nabídla sebevědomou hru s barvami. Navíc, <b>možná aby obohatila jinak střízlivou kolekci o uměleckou stránku, ony již organické formy celkem silně připomínají umělecká díla dadaisty Jeana Arpa</b>.</i></span> </div>
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The only thing<b> I really didn't like were the shoes. </b>In close-up I didn't find them attractive in any possible way (and there are many types of attractiveness, surely), although on the other hand these <b>outfits weren't calling for feminine stilettos but instead heels (and flats) worth a strong confident woman</b>. And such a woman can pull off anything. </div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Jediná věc co se mi opravdu nelíbila byly boty.</b> Ani po pečlivém prozkoumání fotek detailů se mi nezdály atraktivní z jakéhokoli možného hlediska - a ono těch hledisek může být hodně, že. Na druhou stranu je pravda, že<b> tyto outfity nevolaly po frivolních jehlách, ale namísto toho po podpatcích (a 'flats') hodných silné sebevědomé ženy.</b> A taková žena dokáže unosit cokoli.</span></i></div>
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Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-9299878937902049722014-02-12T21:00:00.000+08:002014-02-13T09:12:10.188+08:00Tziporah Salamon: know your body first<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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EN: A wonderful interview with Tziporah Salamon <b>for anyone interested in fashion, aesthetics and developing very own style.</b> Beware, probably not very helpful for trend followers.</div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">CS: Skvělé interview s Tziporah Salamon vhodné <b>pro kohokoli se zaujetím pro módu, estetiku a rozvíjení vlastního stylu</b>. Pozor, pravděpodobně ne moc užitečné pro přívržence trendů. </span></i></div>
Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-24540568351635791762014-02-12T09:21:00.001+08:002014-02-12T11:11:55.015+08:00The Row: less is more<div style="text-align: justify;">
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EN: <b>I've never been a fan of celebrities pursuing careers of fashion designers.</b> I mean, the fact that they have money to launch a brand doesn't mean that they can be legitimately called designers (<b>except for Victoria Beckham</b>, that's a different story). Therefore, I've never been interested in collections of the Olsens' brand The Row. Ok, maybe it was strongly influenced by the fact that I thought about most of their films that they were stupid and never really got all the hype about them. </div>
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But today I've clicked on a certain button on style.com to finally view their latest collection. <b>I was shocked.</b> In a very good way. <b>I loved it. </b>It was completely completely my style (let's say what I wish to wear or if I was a designer what I would design). Being a hater of all sorts of unnecessary embellishments and stupidities on top of coats, dresses and all sorts of outfits there was no other option than to eagerly welcome the collection. <b>It was clean, simple, beautifully cut and fitted and spoke of taste and classiness. </b></div>
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<b>Less is more. Amen.</b><b> </b></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>CS: <span style="text-align: justify;"><b>Nikdy jsem nebyla velkým příznivcem celebrit pokoušejících se rozjet kariéru jako módní návrháři.</b> Fakt, že mají peníze na to založit značku z nich prostě nedělá návrháře. Tečka. Teda <b>kromě Victorie Beckham</b>, ale to je jiný příběh. Tím pádem jsem se nikdy moc nezajímala o <b>The Row </b>- značku Olsenových dvojčat. Ok, možná to bylo i zapříčiněno tím, že se mi většina jejich filmů nelíbila a nikdy jsem v podstatě moc nepochopila všechen ten 'hype' kolem nich.</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Dnes jsem však klikla na style.com na jejich poslední kolekci.<b> Byla jsem šokovaná. V dobrém slova smyslu. </b>Byl to totiž naprosto ale naprosto můj styl (řekněme, že se jednalo o typ oblečení, o kterém sním a který být návrhářkou bych zcela jistě navrhovala).<b> </b>Plus pro mě, jakožto odpůrce všech nezbytných ozdob a stupidit na kabátech, šatech a všech možných druzích oblečků, tady nebyla jiná možnost než tu přijmout s naprostým nadšením. <b>Vše bylo jednoduché, čistý design, nádherně střižené a skvěle padnoucí a vypovídající o vkusu a stylovosti nositelky.</b></i></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Méně je více. Amen.</i></span></b></div>
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Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-75898357738225638072014-02-10T21:51:00.001+08:002014-02-10T22:19:27.178+08:00Public School: a dark love poem<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD1gKXsxaT80PqZ6Pgk_5RwdCic6wRTpLIZ7TePOiFv0D0ZGjIVyc0x8sYNrmvcUEqCx07LIRGS1NzrxKBdcdGVIjbTXlPGe0GrspSXM8bcEz9_6CJm2Y0UyMeK9-Hbl3BG2VTE9bllhs/s1600/_ON_0117.450x675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD1gKXsxaT80PqZ6Pgk_5RwdCic6wRTpLIZ7TePOiFv0D0ZGjIVyc0x8sYNrmvcUEqCx07LIRGS1NzrxKBdcdGVIjbTXlPGe0GrspSXM8bcEz9_6CJm2Y0UyMeK9-Hbl3BG2VTE9bllhs/s1600/_ON_0117.450x675.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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EN: Finally someone did it. <b>This is what I want to wear all day long.</b> </div>
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Even though the collection featured mostly menswear (and who says that menswear couldn't serve as inspiration for womenswear, right) it was fierce. It was the type of clothes that were <b>wearable, comfy yet totally stylish</b>. Of course that I love all those elaborate outfits (Paris FW, huh?) which makes one dream of better days but let's be honest most of the days are far from ideal. Sometimes they might be bit exciting but often they are just average or in the worst case (but hopefully the least possible one) plain bad. And especially in winter. In that case, the only thing I want to do is <b>to hide in all sorts of coats, capes and sweaters (preferably dark) and hope that spring comes as fast as possible. </b>And I can say that Public School's interpreted my feelings in a pretty appealing way. </div>
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(Plus I am <b>a determined supporter of return of hats to the streets</b> - and in this collection were plenty to see.) </div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">CS: Konečně!<b> Toto je přesně to, co bych mohla nosit celé dny. </b></span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">I když se kolekce Public School skládala především z pánských modelů (a kdo tvrdí, že pánská móda nemůže být inspiradí dámské, že) tak byla 'drsná'. Je to přesně to oblečení, které je <b>nositelné, pohodlné a ještě k tomu naprosto stylové. </b>Samozřejmě, že miluji všechny ty do nejnemenšího detailu propracované outfity (pařižský FW?), které člověka přimějí ke snění o lepších zítřcích. Ale buďme upřímní, většina dní má k ideálu daleko. Někdy můžou být mírně vzrušující, ale ve většině případů jsou prostě průměrné nebo v nejhorším případě (ale snad v nejméně pravděpodobném) prostě špatné. A hlavně v zimě. V takovém případě toužím po jediné věci - <b>schovat se v nejrůznějších kabátech, kápích a svetrech (pokud možno tmavých) a doufat, že jaro přijde co nejrychleji to jde.</b> A můžu říct, že Public School podalo mé pocity docela atraktivním způsobem. </span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">(Plus <b>jsem zarputilým zastáncem návratu klobouků do ulic </b>- a v této kolekci jich bylo hodně k vidění.)</span></i></div>
Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-82532196157628654132014-02-08T23:24:00.000+08:002014-02-09T07:55:53.623+08:00Mariano Fortuny: a real fashion artist<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIPIXLbcqX6hQzX4JK2y9H_39O7Ud7BWmgtLKHjZG_RmHS5ptaAL-dlnitP-yKlGIwrJQTiBB3fTcgXada0yxcN7-qsz8Q-L81U29hyphenhyphenEll3-42BoPHKKk-i-izQWoM5lW58U6u1vQ-VJU/s1600/Conde_nast_fortuny.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIPIXLbcqX6hQzX4JK2y9H_39O7Ud7BWmgtLKHjZG_RmHS5ptaAL-dlnitP-yKlGIwrJQTiBB3fTcgXada0yxcN7-qsz8Q-L81U29hyphenhyphenEll3-42BoPHKKk-i-izQWoM5lW58U6u1vQ-VJU/s1600/Conde_nast_fortuny.jpg" height="320" width="192" /></a></div>
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EN: <b>When fashion becomes art.</b><br />
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I used to be convinced that fashion equals art. Don't take me wrong, in a way I still am. But before, I thought that all fashion is art. I didn't really think about it much and I simply thought that being able to have the same enjoyment in fashion creations as in the art ones puts fashion on the same pedestal. I was wrong and I think everyone knows why.<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">CS: <b>Když z módy se stane umění. </b></span></i><br />
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<i>Bývala jsem přesvědčená, že móda rovná se umění. Pro ujasněnou, svým způsobem stále jsem. Ale dřív jsem si myslela, že všechna móda je umění. Vlastně jsem o tom moc nepřemýšlela a jednoduše se domnívala, že když se dokáži kochat módními kreacemi do stejné míry jako těmi uměleckými tak móda patří na ten samý piedestal. Mýlila jsem se a myslím, že všichní víme proč.</i></span></div>
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EN: The mass-produced garments might be created by a genius but at the same time they aren't productions of the genius. <b>They are a mere response to the market demand. </b>They aren't made with a free hand of an artist since their only aim is to get sold as fast as possible. And as you know many artists got accepted way after their deaths, while often being loathed during their lifetime. But <b>fashion doesn't work like that, and, of course, it would be silly if it worked so. </b><br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">CS: Masově produkové oděvy mohou být vytvořeny géniusem, ale zároveň nejsou výtvory génia. <b>Jsou pohou reakcí na tržní poptávku.</b> Nebyly vytvořeny svobodnou rukou umělce, neboť jejich jediný účel je, aby se prodaly tak rychle jen co to je možné. A jak víte spousta umělců byla přijata až dlouho po své smrti, zatímco během svého života byli terčem výsměchu. <b>Móda tak nefunguje a bylo by hloupé kdyby tak fungovala.</b></span></i><br />
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EN: But here is an example of <b>an extraordinary work of art.</b> Yes, a work of art. <b>Mariano Fortuny</b> was an inventor and his dresses were real artistic experiments whose elaborate technique is unrepeatable. In them he tried to create <b>a 'total' dress</b> that wouldn't just provide the wearer a fanciful covering of her body but would make her pure beauty stand out more than anything else - one of the requirements was not to wear anything under the dress. <b>The woman became a part of the artwork. A living sculpture one might say.</b><br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">CS: Tady však máme příklad <b>výjimečného uměleckého díla</b>. Ano, uměleckého díla. <b>Mariano Fortuny</b> byl vynálezce, jehož šaty byly opravdové umělecké experimenty, jejichž komplikovaná technika je jednoduše dnes neopakovatelná. S nimi se pokoušel vytvořit <b>'absolutní' šaty,</b> které by neposkytovaly ženě jen nápadité pokrytí těla, ale víc než cokoli jiného dokázaly nechat vyniknout její ryzí krásu - jedním požadavkem však bylo, aby žena neměla nic pod šaty, žádné spodní prádlo. <b>Z ženy samotné se tak stalo umělecké dílo. Jeden by řekl, že žijící socha. </b></span></i></div>
Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-78823397473051652492014-02-08T00:19:00.000+08:002014-02-09T07:57:46.964+08:00Schiaparelli Spring 2014: the biggest disappointment <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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EN: I know it's quite late but I would like to express myself on the latest Schiaparelli couture show in Paris. I've heard a lot about <b>the excitement of Marco Zanini</b> with which he worked on the collection, and <b>for that I just applaud him</b>. I mean, <i><b>excitement and love is a key to success in any possible industry.</b></i> But other than that, <b>I was simply disappointed</b>. It was maybe the fact that I knew and admired Elsa way before all the hype which came with the exhibition at MET, and so over time I developed a lot of expectations. And they weren't met, at all. Actually, honestly, it was such a boring collection.<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">CS: Vím, že je to celkem pozdě, ale chtěla bych se vyjádřit k nejnovější Schiaparelli couture přehlídce. Slyšela jsem hodně o <b>nadšení Marca Zanini,</b> s jakým na oné kolekci pracoval, a za to mu samozřejmě jen tleskám. <b>Protože, co jiného je klíčem k úspěchu než nadšení a láska? </b>Jinak jsem ovšem byla zklamaná. Možná to bylo kvůli tomu, že jsem Elsu znala a obdivovala již dlouho před tím vším humbukem, který přišel s její výstavou v MET v New Yorku. Takže jsem jaksi měla očekávání. A ta nebyla splněna. Upřímně, byla to tak nudná kolekce. </span></i></div>
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EN: To me <b>the first dress was probably the worst one.</b> It opened the show and so I would expect it to make some statement, but instead it was a kind of dress with <b>a pattern that would wear my grandma</b>, and she wears such indeed. Other dresses and outfits were just lacking the Schiaparelli wit I would expect. Of course, they were often odd and trying to be provoking in one way or another - especially stressed by putting on models flats instead of heels. But even that wasn't that out of place during this fashion week when Dior presented us with 'sneakers' (that strongly resembled shoes you would wear to the sea when you were young, or maybe you still wear them, who knows) and Chanel with models running all over the runway - while wearing sneakers. But it wasn't just the 'missing wit' but also I really really lacked any kind of unifying theme. <b>Why did he present us with 19 different visions of the Schiaparelli woman? Did he present us with any actually? Who's the Schiaparelli woman after all?</b> I don't think that a couple of 'oddities' sums up the persona of Elsa. Not really.<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">CS: <b>Nejhorší ze všech byly podle mě hned ty první šaty.</b> Otevíraly celou přehlídku, takže bych očekávala, že udělají nějaké 'prohlášení', že udají tón kolekce, ale namísto toho jsem se setkala s šaty <b>s potiskem, který by nosila tak leda moje babička</b>, a ta samozřejmě takové nosí. Ostatní šaty a outfity celkově postrádaly onen Schiaparelli důvtip, který bych snad i právem očekávala. Samozřejmě, že byly sem tam zvláštní a snažící se provokovat co to jde - především zdůrazěno obutím modelek do sandálů namísto podpatků. Bohužel ani to letos nebylo natolik 'divné', když Dior nám představil modelky s 'teniskami' (které silně evokovaly boty, které by jste nosili jako malí do moře, nebo je možná ještě nosíte, kdo ví) a Chanel nechal všechny modelky běhat po mole - s teniskami na nohou. Ale to nebylo vše jen o postrádání 'důvtipu'. Velmi velmi mi chybělo nějaké sjednocující téma. P<b>roč nám představil 19 různých vizí Schiaparelli ženy? Představil nám vůbec nějakou? Kdo je Schiaparelli žena? </b>Nemyslím si, že pár 'podivností' dostatečně shrnuju Elsinu personu. Opravdu ne. </span></i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuJ5uzNAqJDzbQJ03QrsX6HSNq2NvDZ2vVCsfPerQg0kHo8rsyGNBGtmS2BBB-M2RlKzSQCT_q4QXmSx1xAZD_3KrrpFB4EeopZDa1Jj-8hVd531VQMR3ZzGaNmH8flTp230bcwdfrZr4/s1600/_ARC0232.450x675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuJ5uzNAqJDzbQJ03QrsX6HSNq2NvDZ2vVCsfPerQg0kHo8rsyGNBGtmS2BBB-M2RlKzSQCT_q4QXmSx1xAZD_3KrrpFB4EeopZDa1Jj-8hVd531VQMR3ZzGaNmH8flTp230bcwdfrZr4/s1600/_ARC0232.450x675.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAte_4-X-6V5ZL_KhxuNLNACsQskNykpDXREhOkDp2FsjW2Ep1TXkYEIrec7YhH5VOW5tj7MJhh4h34lLPkYWCTIrgYartaO51r9b86WKnXS6g2WZ0WC54Txe8ek5-W4LmOwAO8fvIE98/s1600/_ARC0339.450x675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="display: inline !important; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAte_4-X-6V5ZL_KhxuNLNACsQskNykpDXREhOkDp2FsjW2Ep1TXkYEIrec7YhH5VOW5tj7MJhh4h34lLPkYWCTIrgYartaO51r9b86WKnXS6g2WZ0WC54Txe8ek5-W4LmOwAO8fvIE98/s1600/_ARC0339.450x675.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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EN: On the other hand, I don't want to sound bitter, and I must admit that I liked one outfit or two. If I was to pick my winner though, it would be <b>'look 10' </b>(blue-red print trousers/skirt + black top + white gloves + and black 'asian-style' hat) which probably resonates with my current Asian location. </div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">CS: Na druhou stranu, nechci znít zahořkle a musím připustit, že nějaký ten outfit se mi vcelku líbil. Kdybych měla vybrat mého vítěze tak to bude 'look 10' (červeno-modré kalhoty/sukně + černý top + bílé rukavice + černý 'asijský' klobouk), který zřejmě resonuje s mojí aktuální asijskou polohou.</span></i><br />
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Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-73555381006879644932014-02-05T06:35:00.003+08:002014-02-09T07:57:57.720+08:00a fragment of coptic textile<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqzAXGUH1w6hDPZzrjZ15NIAmgkBGjz3Yj4e1JK5obLyCAAu-AOPEoeeD4mWjwznHOR1SGUZlRs5uykFqpyvbt27pM_a4pudc97QAW8MymaahCdPVAoxhvrvA_e2wvh7dS44buesbo_NM/s1600/AN00061389_001_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqzAXGUH1w6hDPZzrjZ15NIAmgkBGjz3Yj4e1JK5obLyCAAu-AOPEoeeD4mWjwznHOR1SGUZlRs5uykFqpyvbt27pM_a4pudc97QAW8MymaahCdPVAoxhvrvA_e2wvh7dS44buesbo_NM/s1600/AN00061389_001_l.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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EN: I <b>need to share this fragment of coptic textile</b>. I bumped it into it while browsing the collections of the British Museum and immediately fell in love with it. I love <b>the pattern, the colours</b> and despite the fact that the textile is more than thousand years old it still seems to me in a way modern. <b>If I was a designer I would probably take it as a reference point for my collection. </b>If I was...</div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">CS: <b>Musím se podělit o tento fragment koptské textilie. </b>Narazila jsem na něj během procházení kolekcí Britského muzea a okamžitě jsem si jej zamilovala. Líbí se mi <b>ten vzor, barvy</b> a navzdory faktu, že se jedná o více než tisíc let starou textilii tak stále na mě působí svým způsobem moderně. <b>Kdybych byla designér tak si jsem téměř jistá, že bych jej využila jako výchozí bod mé nové kolekce. </b>Kdybych byla...</span></i></div>
<br />Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-74790538354369213242014-02-03T23:35:00.000+08:002014-02-09T07:58:09.029+08:00Cambodian fashion week documentary<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/70SmD9G-3fs?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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EN: About three weeks ago, I got back from Cambodia. My <b>journey to Cambodia was rather a spontaneous decision</b>, and I had absolutely no expectations and no knowledge of the country. When I arrived I was just shocked. What I saw was <b>way beyond my expectations</b> (OK, I had none, right) and the whole experience was truly eye-opening. So, I was more than delighted later today when I found this documentary on the Cambodian fashion week and its garment industry - it's <b>worth watching. </b><br />
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The host in the document suggested a disgust over current designers and fashion brands who exploit people like Cambodians and then parade at fashion weeks. I get her point as it's really distressing. But then, a usual reaction to such an issue (and a 'solution' to a problem) is: <b><i>"I'm not gonna buy that stuff."</i></b> And trust me, I've heard it lots of times. So I just want to ask one thing: <b>would it be a solution?</b> Wouldn't it only cause people lose their jobs, lose any possible means to meet their ends, and therefore cause even more suffering? I'm afraid so. At the end of the day, Cambodia and therefore Cambodians heavily depend on textile industry. I don't think that the fashion companies are the 'bad' guys here, even though they're neither the good ones. Still, they're employing the people and they're giving them money (although little). I know that the conditions in factories are terrible. But what else would the people do? There's nothing in Cambodia. Cambodia is a poor country and even their cows look completely anorexic. Personally, I think that it's the government to blame. <b>It's the government which approves the conditions within which their people work and which sets the rules of the game.</b><br />
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I should stop it now, I could write an essay on it as there are many points to raise on ethics, morality etc. but, honestly, at the moment I'm fully enjoying a rare momentum of an essay-free period so I won't do so.<br />
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<b>Just think about it.</b><br />
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(P.S. Don't get me wrong, I'm not a supporter of the state in which Cambodian textile industry is today. I just call for not putting the blame on designers and brands only.)<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">CS: <b>Asi před třemi týdny jsem se vrátila z Kambodže.</b> Moje výprava byla v podstatě výsledkem spontánního rozhodnutí, a tudíž jsem neměla absolutně žádná očekávání a vlastně jsem ani nic o té zemi nevěděla. Během své první cesty tuk-tukem centrem Phnom Penhu jsem zažívala šok. <b>To co jsem viděla v mnohém předčilo má očekávání - v horším slova smyslu</b> (OK, neměla jsem žádná očekávání, že) - a celá má cesta po Kambodže mi postupně víc a víc otevírala oči - odhaloval se mi nový svět, třetí svět. Tím pádem jsem dnes byla víc než nadšená, když jsem našla dokument o kambodžském fashion weeku a textilním průmyslu - a<b> stojí to za zhlédnutí.</b></span></i><br />
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<i>Moderátorka naznačila jakési znechucení nad dnešními designéry a modními značkami, které zneužívají lidi jako právě Kambodžany a pak se pyšně promenují po fashion weekech. Zcela ji chápu, jelikož je to svým způsobem opravdu znepokující. Ale pak, obvyklou reakcí na takovoutu problematiku (a často 'řešení' problému) je: </i><b>"Už z tama</b><b> nikdy </b><b>ty hadry nekoupím." </b><i>A věřte mi, už jsem to párkrát slyšela. Takže bych se chtěla zeptat na jednu věc:</i><b style="font-style: italic;"> bylo by to řešením?</b><i> Neznamenalo by to pro Kambodžany jen ztrátu práce, ztrátu prostředků tolik potřebných k přežití a tím pádem jen a pouze více strádání a trápení? Obávám se, že ano. Nakonec, Kambodža, a tedy Kambodžané, silně závisí právě na textilním průmyslu .Nemyslím si, že módní společnosti jsou ti špatní, i když se nedají ani považovat za ty správné. Jenže, co jiného by Kambodžané mohli dělat? Nic tam není. Kambodža je chudá země a i ty jejich krávy jsou anorektičky. </i><b style="font-style: italic;">Osobně si myslím, že vina je na straně vlády. </b><i>Vláda je ten kdo umožňuje práci v oněch hrozných podmínkách a vláda je ten kdo určuje pravidla hry. </i></span><br />
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<i>Ale měla bych končit. Mohla bych na to napsat celou esej, jelikož je tady toho spousta bodů jako etika a morálnost atd., o kterých by se dalo dlouze diskutovat, jenže já momentálně si užívám vzácné chvíle klidu, kdy nemám na programu žádnou deadline a žádnou esej. Takže já zde končím. </i></span><br />
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<i>Ale vy můžete pokračovat, popřemýšlejte o tom. </i></span><br />
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<i>(P.S. Pro ujasnění: nepodporuji 'způsoby' kambodžského textilního průmyslu. Jen chci, aby se vina nepřikládala pouze na stranu designérů a módních značek.)</i></span><br />
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Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-13551483752818152212014-02-02T20:30:00.000+08:002014-02-09T07:58:20.008+08:00history: TUTA and the 21st century<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis7ivoPal6GfaAEsMwjo9wg4t7tuAAsYZWG6YNQtwjJw8sGVNnXRKnQ8pPmggG7va26xOJQO9O0aWQf2e_V3Js_pAF-rkgpaWwmZjWou2MBEk1_Vb0kwJhQqoiwIylVqmTN7FSkowRic0/s1600/The-TuTa-by-Thayaht.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis7ivoPal6GfaAEsMwjo9wg4t7tuAAsYZWG6YNQtwjJw8sGVNnXRKnQ8pPmggG7va26xOJQO9O0aWQf2e_V3Js_pAF-rkgpaWwmZjWou2MBEk1_Vb0kwJhQqoiwIylVqmTN7FSkowRic0/s1600/The-TuTa-by-Thayaht.jpg" height="320" width="302" /></a></div>
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EN: The <b>TUTA</b>, a one-piece dress, is a creation of <b>Thayaht from 1919-20</b>. It was a universal dress that could be <b>worn by anyone, any time, all year round</b>. It was Thayaht's expression of the <b>futuristic</b> ideals of the early 20th century which were furiously trying to get rid of anything old and rigid, while embracing everything seemingly <b>modern and dynamic</b>. Thayaht envisioned it as a dress of a great practicality, providing comfort, being easy to make and making it easy to keep certain hygienic standards. It is interesting that even though he tried to be as much innovative as possible, the <b>conventions still didn't enable him to make the bold move to create it as a unisex piece </b>- a female TUTA would feature skirt instead of trousers. </div>
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The pattern is easy to follow and I guess it doesn't require much hard-core sewing skill. Actually, I <b>feel like creating one myself</b> once I get home in summer (with trousers, though). I'm so curious how it would turn out.</div>
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By the way, the latest February issue of W Magazine features an editorial <b>'Singular Sensation'</b> that was inspired by TUTA. <b>Nice to hear that TUTA is not completely forgotten.</b> (Though, notice, the 21st century version makes TUTA unisex - emancipation, heh?) And I like the grey take on TUTA! </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj92yEd_IcnqkVN4x_SQ-KULbS1VeaZt0ryo6ZizpWH8ceCenYz03oMsxiL3j39mIk2jNgGFLUmALTPp8CSxFrJNslG6nEYqx_re1qL9n030V-QucDNn4dpDsQFja85R-ZPH2xpKcwNC3Y/s1600/Singular-Sensation-Ben-Weller4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj92yEd_IcnqkVN4x_SQ-KULbS1VeaZt0ryo6ZizpWH8ceCenYz03oMsxiL3j39mIk2jNgGFLUmALTPp8CSxFrJNslG6nEYqx_re1qL9n030V-QucDNn4dpDsQFja85R-ZPH2xpKcwNC3Y/s1600/Singular-Sensation-Ben-Weller4.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0_5eyO9ZCD6bC4TI3T82_m-1OufalX3mfH72M4gEo7ESCqFLtRs0RniHWlVe5u-BuwvHkTwu2p0VBNjs4Kpf3OCzY6ztGz369gkXc3hqNghf-CxHpMLCPpa7VirR-XzUEWhprr_KqfUw/s1600/Singular-Sensation-Ben-Weller8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0_5eyO9ZCD6bC4TI3T82_m-1OufalX3mfH72M4gEo7ESCqFLtRs0RniHWlVe5u-BuwvHkTwu2p0VBNjs4Kpf3OCzY6ztGz369gkXc3hqNghf-CxHpMLCPpa7VirR-XzUEWhprr_KqfUw/s1600/Singular-Sensation-Ben-Weller8.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">CS: <b style="font-style: italic;">TUTA </b><i>je jednodílný kousek oděvu, </i><b style="font-style: italic;">silně evokující montérky</b><i>, který je kreací </i><b style="font-style: italic;">Thayahta z let 1919-20</b><i>. Jedná se o univerzální oblek, který může být nošen kýmkolik, kdykoli, bez ohledu na roční období. TUTA byla Thayhtovým </i><b style="font-style: italic;">vyjádřením futurististických idealů</b><i>, které se horečně snažily zbavit čehokoli starého a </i><b style="font-style: italic;">nadšeně vítaly vše moderní</b><i>. Thayaht tak představil oděv, který nejen dominoval svojí praktičností, ale také poskytoval pohodlí, byl jednoduchý k ušití a pomáhal udržovat jisté hygienické standardy. Je zajímavé, že i když se snažil být co nejvíce inovativní, </i><b style="font-style: italic;">konvence mu stále svazovaly ruce a tak nedokázal udělat ten odvážný krok a vytvořit TUTU jako unisex</b><i> - ženská verze měla sukni namísto kalhot. </i></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Střih je lehký a nemyslím si, že vyžaduje extrémní zručnost v oboru šití. <b>Sama se asi pokusím jednu takovou TUTU vytvořit </b>jak v létě dorazím domů (s kalhotami, heh). Jsem zvědavá jak působí ve skutečnosti. </span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Mimochodem, editorial 'Singular Sensation' z nejnovějšího únorového vydání W Magazine byl inspirován právě TUTOU. <b>Je dobré vědět, že ještě neupadla v zapomnění. </b>(Všimněte si, že TUTA 21. století už je unisexová - že by emancipace?) Líbí se mi ta šedá verze!</span></i></div>
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Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-85844212989361440282014-02-01T20:30:00.000+08:002014-02-09T07:58:38.347+08:00history: Marinetti on women and fashion<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9USX8fFwCNHTsjhvbvFMbdtSE7Sb4RotVu9P7Gw0lNd4BgsUmpazzFMrP42tlD0fHxh8UWpgx1xvZHKP6LAWSfh327ug_mn3wjCwOzqKV-KQWClZLc5HtmJypZhydNF0ALI-js4w2eSk/s1600/marinetti1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9USX8fFwCNHTsjhvbvFMbdtSE7Sb4RotVu9P7Gw0lNd4BgsUmpazzFMrP42tlD0fHxh8UWpgx1xvZHKP6LAWSfh327ug_mn3wjCwOzqKV-KQWClZLc5HtmJypZhydNF0ALI-js4w2eSk/s1600/marinetti1.jpg" height="186" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Today's woman loves luxury more than love.</b> A visit to a great dressmaker's establishment, escorted by a paunchy, gouty banker friend who pays the bills, is a perfect substitute for the most amorous rendezvous with an adored young man. The woman finds <b>all the mystery of love in selection of an amazing ensemble</b>, the latest model, <b>which her friends still do not have.</b> <i>Filippo T. Marinetti, Destruction of Syntax-Imagination without Strings-Words-in-Freedom (1913)</i></div>
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It's been one hundred years, and I guess nothing has changed so far. <b>Amazing how relevant it is.</b></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><b>Dnešní žena zbožňuje luxus víc než lásku. </b>Návštěva módního butiku, za doprovodu pupkatého bankéře postiženého dnou, který zaplatí všechny účty, je perfektní náhražkou za to nejvášnivější milostné setkání se zbožnovaným mladíkem. Ž<b>ena tak nachází všechna tajemství lásky ve výběru skvělého kompletu podle nejnovější módy, který její přátelé stále ještě nemají.</b> </i>Filippo T. Marinetti, Destruction of Syntax-Imagination without Strings-Words-in-Freedom (1913)</span></blockquote>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Už je to víc než sto let a obávám se, že se dosud nic nezměnilo. <b>Stále relevantní.</b></span></i></div>
Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2205819404564155305.post-88872531795692421842014-01-31T10:25:00.002+08:002014-02-09T07:58:49.864+08:00focus on: Adidas Superstar<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyIlk0D1fjRyrFlqLzlOpFQpdf9XHqLi2xy3NGAgns0vKWBf0hYQCbYcQYkobMgANNOreaslFkgZ5dgi7t-VNXfbV9TGECkuZ8JUpO7Jqq8abcfdew_sD53pS-eGTqanASRpAH9bEuG6I/s1600/_ON_1464.450x675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyIlk0D1fjRyrFlqLzlOpFQpdf9XHqLi2xy3NGAgns0vKWBf0hYQCbYcQYkobMgANNOreaslFkgZ5dgi7t-VNXfbV9TGECkuZ8JUpO7Jqq8abcfdew_sD53pS-eGTqanASRpAH9bEuG6I/s1600/_ON_1464.450x675.JPG" height="320" title="Dior" width="213" /></span></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr052tKponTWuqpETfudgQ0vgFJrFpqsXgyscvY7ADc29YnjTYA4MUhNi_A-yoc-yDeThlYlymx1X9dlC4cQQAGCya72BsYPILAdU0Uzu8BizdyFRAQIlByEDt2pRQECNamZ8Fo-31WRU/s1600/_DX10636.450x675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: black;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr052tKponTWuqpETfudgQ0vgFJrFpqsXgyscvY7ADc29YnjTYA4MUhNi_A-yoc-yDeThlYlymx1X9dlC4cQQAGCya72BsYPILAdU0Uzu8BizdyFRAQIlByEDt2pRQECNamZ8Fo-31WRU/s1600/_DX10636.450x675.JPG" height="320" title="Chanel" width="213" /></span></a><br />
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EN: <b>Trainers are everywhere</b>, just check out the latest haute couture fashion week in Paris. Both fashion giants Chanel and Dior presented us with their very own takes on trainers (I<b> love Chanel</b> but not so much Dior) and, as they say, <b>couture is an indicator of the next big trends</b>. So, naturally, I just can't wait for the upcoming fashion weeks to see what designers from more 'relatable spheres' envision for the next fall/winter season - and I guess trainers will be involved. </div>
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In fact, trends-wise, trainers are nothing new. Nikes and New Balance have already been around for a while. But do you remember <b>Adidas Superstar which were a big trend around 2006-2007?</b> I do, because I was crazy about them just as everyone else. Half a year ago I asked on the fashionspot whether the fashion flock think that the Superstar will make a comeback or not. No one answered, probably it didn't seem relevant since New Balance was at its peak, especially here in Hong Kong. But, honestly, <b>I do feel them making it back once again</b>. Not only that everyday <b>I spot more and more people wearing them,</b> but sportswear is also becoming a big thing at the moment. If you just skim the latest men's fashion week you can see that many <b>designers actually reflected in their designs an interest in sports</b>, especially baseball and basketball. And what's Adidas Superstar? A basketball shoe.</div>
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But anyway, I can't wait to see if they make it or not. And I'm tempted to buy a pair - if only out of nostalgia. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4gUvOOxAfwpWe1hVov3_DW2Rxpt30ej61gNG1mHnuMpfWrNOqizwjxuRje4GQumDsMWQB1sZIwMJYlHyHVXMz7AIlogkG67pbxLnoFJAFG7y7QSVQj88eFybWdDwt1D_ppSM6HmMmDkE/s1600/large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4gUvOOxAfwpWe1hVov3_DW2Rxpt30ej61gNG1mHnuMpfWrNOqizwjxuRje4GQumDsMWQB1sZIwMJYlHyHVXMz7AIlogkG67pbxLnoFJAFG7y7QSVQj88eFybWdDwt1D_ppSM6HmMmDkE/s1600/large.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">CS: <i style="font-weight: bold;">Tenisky jsou všude</i><i>, doslova. Jen se podívejte na nejnovější haute couture fashion week v Paříži. Oba módní giganti Chanel a Dior nám představili kolekce postavené právě na teniskách (</i><b style="font-style: italic;">Chanel se víc než vyvedl</b><i>, Dior se víc než nevyvedl) a jak se říká, </i><b style="font-style: italic;">haute couture je ukazatelem následujících módních trendů</b><i>. Takže přirozeně se nemůžu dočkat následujících RTW fashion weeků, kdy konečně uvidím co si pro nás přichystali designéři z více 'praktických sfér' pro následující podzim/zima sezónu - a hádám, že tenisky budou hrát velkou roli. </i></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Ve skutečnosti, co se týče trendů, tenisky nejsou nic nového. Nike a New Balance už jistou dobu dominují módní scénu. Ale pamatujete si <b>Adidas Superstar, které byly velkým hitem okolo 2006-2007? </b>Já moc dobře, protože jsem je musela mít stejně nutně jako všichni ostatní. Asi před půl rokem jsem se ptala na fashionspotu, jestli si myslí, že se chystá návrat Superstarů. Nikdo neodpověděl, předpokládám, že se to nezdálo relevantní, když New Balance byl zrovna na svém vrcholu, alespoň tady v Hong Kongu. Ale upřímně, <b>já cítím jejich návrat.</b> Nejen že každý den <b>potkávám víc a víc lidí se Superstary na nohou</b>, ale celkově sportswear se stává větším a větším 'trendem'. Už jen, když si projdetete nedávno proběhlý pánský fashion week tak uvidíte, že<b> spousta designérů se snažila v jejich tvorbě reflektovat právě sport</b> - a hlavně baseball a basketbal. A co jsou Superstary? Basketbalová obuv. </span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">No prostě se nemůžu dočkat následujícího roku, kdy uvidím jestli to Superstary daly nebo ne. A mám nutkání si jedny koupit - už jen z té nostalgie.</span></i></div>
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Adahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14178368890431211520noreply@blogger.com0